Moving
to a new home can uncover a few surprises. Things that were tucked away years
ago and forgotten are sometimes unexpectedly rediscovered. My recent move yielded up
a treasure which I had thought had been lost forever; my last CP Rail employee
pass dating back to the days before Via Rail. The pass was good for travel
between Montreal and Megantic.
My last CP Rail employee pass with both parts |
A larger copy of the return part. |
Finding the pass brought back buried memories and when I began recounting stories to my wife about train trips of yore, she suggested I write down and record the details. So here is my story and a brief look back.
July
1976.
While I did not know it at the time, what would turn out to be my last
ride on CP Rail’s Train 41, better known as "The Atlantic Limited" also
coincided with what would be my last visit with my grandparents in Milan. This
trip would also be my first and only voyage over the rails of the Megantic
Subdivision on a Canadian Pacific employee pass and my last rail trip anywhere
as a CP employee.
The night before: Train 41 leaving Saint John, NB. |
The sudden airline strike early that summer had forced an early end to my visit in Milan. Making a hurried
effort to return to Vancouver and back to work on time, I was rushing off to
Montreal hoping to be able to obtain a seat on “The Canadian”. Boarding Train
41 in Megantic at 03:50 meant having to crawl out of bed half asleep around 02:00,
getting ready and then driving the fifteen miles from Milan. Mom drove me that
morning. Outside was absolutely black. No distant city lights; no hint of dawn
on the horizon. Little conversation transpired. No one was happy about my
sudden change of plans.
We
arrived at the Megantic train station around 03:40 only to learn that Train 41
was running at least two hours late. Rather than wait out the delay in
Megantic, we returned to Milan to have an early breakfast. I really did not
want to have to depart for Vancouver and was grateful for the extra time.
Around 05:20 we departed again for Megantic. Dad drove this second time. Checking with the operator on duty, I was informed that Train 41 was still expected to arrive around 06:00. After exchanging our good-byes, Dad departed before the train arrived. He hated waiting and I was afraid I would change my mind about leaving.
Around 05:20 we departed again for Megantic. Dad drove this second time. Checking with the operator on duty, I was informed that Train 41 was still expected to arrive around 06:00. After exchanging our good-byes, Dad departed before the train arrived. He hated waiting and I was afraid I would change my mind about leaving.
The
Atlantic Limited very slowly squealed to rest in Megantic at 06:10. The consist
was one of CP Rail’s usual 1970’s augmented summer Atlantic Limited: one of the
1800 series E units, a smooth curved-wall baggage car, a stainless steel Manor
sleeping car, A Skyline dome car, a Budd-built stainless steel coach and an
Angus Shops built smooth curved-wall coach trailing.
Canada
Customs and Immigration agents boarded the train as soon as a door was opened.
Megantic was the train’s first stop in Canada following its nocturnal journey
across Maine. After the government agents completed their business on the
train, the Farnham Division crew took over. Finally permitted to board, I chose
a vacant window seat in the rear coach and settled in for the trip to Montreal,
determined to make a mental note of every detail of the journey over my
favourite railway mileage. Most coach passengers were reluctantly awake,
probably with much muted thanks to Canada Customs and Immigration.
A typical CP Rail 1970's Train 41. The Atlantic Limited about to depart from the Montreal West train station and nearing the end of its run from Saint John, NB. |
Although more than two hours late, The Atlantic Limited did not depart prior to fulfilling its entire ten minute wait in Megantic. Also because of the delay, the entire subdivision would be travelled in daylight instead of the customary mostly darkness.
Westward
from Megantic the first four miles is tough climbing to achieve a vertical gain
of about 250 feet. After twice crossing Highway 161 east of the recently
removed Glen River siding, mile 4.4, the grade eases and the track alignment
straightens out somewhat. While approaching this location the train started to
speed up.
From watching the telephone poles flash by and listening to the rhythmic chatter of steel wheels rolling over the joints of bolted rails, I was certain the train was travelling faster than 50 miles per hour. In spite of the 50 miles per hour permanent slow order on curves between miles 3.0 and 9.0 the engineer did not relent as the train leaned into the long gentle curve west of the former siding. Our hurried pace continued uphill toward Nantes, mile 8.4. By now I was aware this would not be the usual relaxed 115 minute cruise between Megantic and Sherbrooke.
From watching the telephone poles flash by and listening to the rhythmic chatter of steel wheels rolling over the joints of bolted rails, I was certain the train was travelling faster than 50 miles per hour. In spite of the 50 miles per hour permanent slow order on curves between miles 3.0 and 9.0 the engineer did not relent as the train leaned into the long gentle curve west of the former siding. Our hurried pace continued uphill toward Nantes, mile 8.4. By now I was aware this would not be the usual relaxed 115 minute cruise between Megantic and Sherbrooke.
As
the whistle sounded for the crossing in Nantes the engineer finally applied the
brakes. Braking intensified as Train 41 tilted into the long curve through
town. The wheels shrieked and showered the right of way with an impressive
display of sparks as the train slowed for the 40 mile per hour speed limit
beginning west of Nantes at mile 9.0. Having walked along the track years
earlier, I knew there was little straight railway through to mile 10.0 and as
well as beyond. The westward climb that starts from Megantic continues for a
little more than a mile to peak near mile board 11 at slightly over 1700 feet
above sea level and about 400 feet higher than Megantic. This location just
west of mile 11.0 is the highest elevation on the Megantic Subdivision.
Although
the 50 mile per hour speed limit on curves governed again from mile 10.0, the
Atlantic’s pace did not significantly change until after cresting the summit
west of mile 11.0. For several miles the tangents lengthen with a few reverse
curves interspersed. Assisted by gravity, speed increased quickly as the train
raced downhill toward the curved uphill rise near mile 13.0. Over the mile and
a half of tangent track paralleling Highway 214 Train 41 sped toward the S
curve east of Milan. Even after passing mile board 14, the engineer held off until
the last instant before making the expected reduction of pressure in the train
line. Upon feeling the train slowing, I left my seat, went to the vestibule of
the coach and opened the top half of the door on the left side.
Recorded in the mid 1950's, the mile and a half of tangent track east of Milan with a short eastbound train heading toward Megantic. The train shown is at or near mile board 14. |
Completing the reverse curve approach into the tiny town, the engine’s whistle broke silence for the crossing in Milan. I was watching to see if anyone would be standing on the verandah of my grandparents’ home. Dad was waiting there and gave a wave in response to mine. I thought it ironic to see my father standing in the very same spot where I had often stood to watch trains passing through Milan. He intensely disliked trains as much as I loved them.
Train
41 quickly cleared the road crossing and east switch of Milan siding. Before returning
to my seat I remained long enough to watch Milan disappear from view as the
train rounded the curve at mile board 15. Quickly followed the familiar sound
of wheels clattering over the west switch of the siding. The train’s speed
increased and the whistle for the small crossing just west of mile 16.0 soon
followed. 58 seconds after mile board 16 followed mile board 17 and then
braking was applied as the train closed in on the first bend of another reverse
curve. Midpoint through the S the downhill grade changes to uphill. The E-8
unit growled as the train leaned into the second curve and charged up the small
rise to mile 18.0. For a few wonderful moments I was treated to a spectacular
wilderness sunrise scene of secluded Otter Pond with majestic Megantic Mountain in the
distance. With strongly felt yearning from within, my soul cried out, “I want
to get off and stay here!”
The train slowed for the 45 miles per hour on curves speed limit commencing at mile 22.0. From there to Scotstown, mile 25.0, the right of way is a downhill succession of curves interrupted by a bit more than a half mile tangent from which the town’s passing siding branches out. Through this three mile twist CP Rail’s route makes a vertical drop in elevation of about 120 feet. Train 41 was not going to win back any time on this part of the subdivision. West of the Dell Road crossing is the closed granite quarry that had been the source of the rock ballast under the track. The quarry sidings had all been removed since my previous journey over these rails. The Atlantic continued coasting and pinging through the curves, passing outcroppings of granite and crossing several small streams.
On
the curved approach to the eastern crossing of Highway 214 at the edge of
Scotstown the train slowed considerably. The engineer was preparing to stop if
the green and white flag was hanging at the station to indicate that someone
was waiting. After sounding the standard warning for the highway crossing, two
short hoots from the horn followed. The train crossed Highway 214 a second
time, rolled by Scotstown Station without stopping and rumbled across the
bridge over the Salmon River. I assumed that the proceed signal was given to
let the conductor know that no stop was required at the first scheduled flag
stop west of Megantic. The engineer had covered the 25 miles from Megantic to
Scotstown in 32 minutes instead of the schedule’s 37.
The CPR right of way and Salmon River west of Scotstown |
The
summit is reached at the road crossing between the easement of the last curve
and the switch points of the east end of Gould siding, mile 30.2. Through this
curve east of the crossing the right of way has again altered direction by
nearly 90 degrees. As Train 41 negotiated the summit bend, speed increased.
Ahead was a four mile downhill stretch of “50 miles per hour on curves” track
comprising of tangents and long gentle curves. The engineer did not waste any
time in hustling the train over this mileage. I looked at my watch and timed progress
between mile boards 31 and 32. About 56 seconds. Between mile boards 32 and 33
the count was down to 52 seconds. Rattling over the east switch of the Long
Swamp siding mile 33.7 should have quickly followed but did not. The siding had
been dismantled. About halfway past the recently torn out siding heavy braking
was applied. CPR’s Train 41 quickly slowed for the lower speed limit and a
double set of reverse curves. Ahead were 17 miles of 40 miles per hour “On
curves” track and little of it straight. A few curves later the steward’s first
call for breakfast was announced, so I headed to the Skyline car for coffee.
CP
Rail’s “Atlantic Limited” was clearly “The Canadian’s” little sister; a daily
dome train on an abbreviated route but utilizing the same stainless steel
equipment for a shorter train. It was also a much less patronized train. The
usual 1970’s consist was a lone E-8 unit pulling four cars including the
baggage car. Of course on weekends and around holidays, the train’s consist
would be augmented with an additional sleeper or two and extra coaches. For a
period of time CP Express containers on flat cars were included in the train.
Listed
in CP Rail’s schedules as 42 eastbound and 41 westbound, the trains did most of
their travel between Montreal and Saint John through the night. Looking back
over the years, the “Atlantic Limited” must have been one of CP Rail’s best
kept secrets. It was certainly one of the must unsung of Canada’s name trains.
Unlike many famous name trains however, the Atlantic Limited survived into the
Via Rail era.
Train
41 continued its downhill roll into and through Bury, mile 38.3. Facing
sideways at the small table, I was thoroughly enjoying my coffee and watching
the wall of trees and telephone poles flash by the windows of the other side of
the car. While CP Rail truly did not want the passenger trains nor always run
them on time, CP Rail’s dining car crews could always be depended upon to
provide excellent coffee with numerous refills.
The
Atlantic rattled over the east switch of Ross, mile 42.4, the passing siding
between Bury and Cookshire. Ross was one of the longer sidings on the Megantic
Subdivision. Several sidings, including this one, were lengthened in the early
1960’s to accommodate longer freight trains following the end of the steam era.
With
my coffee out of the way I moved upstairs into the dome. All 24 seating spaces
were vacant so I was free to occupy what I always considered the best seat on
the train; front right in the dome. From there it was possible to see and read
all the railway signs and signals. Watching the leading passenger cars bounce
and sway back and forth while the train twisted through curve after curve was
soothing and deceptively unhurried.
The CPR station at Cookshire, Quebec, in July 1994 |
Cookshire
is the junction station with the Sawyerville Subdivision. All the secondary
tracks were void of cars, probably owing to the lack of carload shippers and
consignees in Sawyerville. The decaying 6 plus miles between Cookshire and Sawyerville
was all that remained of a former railway (under the control of Maine Central Railroad until 1927) that once ran between Beecher Falls, Vermont, and Dudswell Junction on the Quebec Central Railway.
July 12, 1994. Via Rail's Train 11, the Atlantic, has just crossed highway 108 in Cookshire, Quebec, and is making the climb toward Birchton on the westbound ruling grade. |
The rail route between Cookshire and Birchton is mostly curved. For about a mile the Megantic Subdivision is shadowed by the Sawyerville Subdivision. I watched the rusty rails of the other track as they slowly appeared to move farther away while the distance in between increased. Train 41 turned and squealed through another curve and the Sawyerville Subdivision was lost from view. A year later the Sawyerville Subdivision was abandoned and the rails lifted.
Ahead
was Birchton, Mile 52.1 as well as the last stretch of track for fast running
before reaching Sherbrooke. Instead of increasing speed as was expected, the
train slowed and eventually stopped at the east switch to enter the siding.
Relegated to taking the “hole” to meet eastbound freight 952, the humbled passenger
train consist slowly creaked and crawled along the secondary track as far as
the west switch and waited. And waited. And waited. All the won back minutes since
departing from Megantic were given up. More waiting and the train was down
three hours.
Train
41 was nearly four hours behind schedule when the eastbound freight finally
dawdled past. After 952 cleared the switch Train 41 crept out of the siding, paused
again while the switch points were realigned, then proceeded after the trainman
was aboard. Instead of making a quick dash the Atlantic rolled along at a
subdued pace to and through Bulwer, a former flag-stop station at mile 54.8 and then slowed again near Johnville, mile
58.2. While I never did learn the official explanation for the delay, I did
overhear talk on board 41 that train 952 had been in distress on its eastbound climb
between Lennoxville and Birchton.
Clear
of Johnville, the Atlantic Limited continued its subdued pace and commenced the
cork-screw descent toward Racey, mile 60.7. Racey has the distinction of being
the only siding on the subdivision that is all curved track. At one location in
the woods beside the right of way is a large pile of bricks. I learned from the
late Leslie McLeod, a former Farnham Division conductor, that many years
earlier a brick factory had been located there. Except for the pile of bricks
in the trees, no other trace existed of the industry that was once there.
Beyond
the west end of Racey, the ravine which the railway was following widens and
deepens. This brief part of the route is a ledge that was carved out of the
rocky crags that formed the side of a steep hill. This is one of the most
scenic locations on the Megantic Subdivision, particularly when viewed from the
upstairs in the dome car. The train continued its descent, grinding and
squealing through curve after curve. Buildings of Bishop’s University soon
appeared as Train 41 reached the outskirts of Lennoxville, mile 65.4.
Trundling across the black steel-plated deck bridge over the motionless murky waters of the Massawippi River, the Atlantic canted into the sharp curve while slowing for both the road crossing in the center of town and approach to the interlocking signals protecting the crossing of CN’s Sherbrooke Subdivision. After banging over the diamond and crossing the CN right of way, the passenger train began the uphill finish toward Sherbrooke, mile 68.5. The CTC signals were all displaying green, thus indicating “Clear! Proceed!”
Moments
later a very tardy Atlantic Limited groaned to rest at the dirtied red brick CPR station in
Sherbrooke as I vacated my perch in the dome to return to my seat in the coach.
My journey over the Megantic Subdivision was complete but I was now confronted
with the fact that Train 41 was not going to arrive in Montreal in time for me
to connect with “The Canadian” and alternative transportation to Vancouver
would have to be found following my arrival at Windsor Station. But that shall
be another story for another day.
(Written in 1992)
The Oddblock Station Agent
The Oddblock Station Agent